Fennel, orange and olives: a salad with clean edges
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Fennel can dominate a salad when the slices are thick. Shave it finely and it becomes a crisp, delicate counterpoint to orange. A few dark olives are enough: their salt should punctuate the plate rather than season every bite in advance.
For 4 side servings, use 2 small fennel bulbs, about 400g trimmed; 2 large oranges; 50g pitted Kalamata olives, halved; 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil; 1 tablespoon lemon juice; black pepper; and a pinch of fine salt if needed. Reserve the feathery fennel fronds. Wash the vegetables and fruit before preparing them.
Cut the fennel bulbs in half and remove the hardest central triangle, then slice across the grain as thinly as you comfortably can with a sharp knife. A mandoline can help, but use its guard. Cut the peel and white pith from the oranges over a bowl to collect the juice. Slice the flesh into rounds or segments and remove any pips.
Whisk 2 tablespoons of collected orange juice with the oil and lemon juice. Toss the fennel with half the dressing, then spread on a broad plate. Add the oranges and olives, spoon over the rest and finish with fronds and pepper. Taste before adding salt. Allow about 20 minutes; the fennel should still have a gentle snap.
For a sharper plate, add a small handful of rocket immediately before serving. If preparing ahead, slice the fennel up to a few hours early and keep it covered in the fridge, with the dressing separate. Refrigerate the finished salad promptly and use within 24 hours for its best texture. Do not leave a dressed bowl sitting out through a long afternoon.