Crushed potatoes with a crisp skirt

myAudience · AI-generated food illustration · Original AI-generated illustration; no third-party photograph
A crushed potato has more edges than a roast wedge. Those broken edges are where the tray does its work. Let the boiled potatoes lose their steam before pressing them, and use a broad flat utensil rather than pounding them into fragments.
For 4 side portions, use 700g evenly sized baby potatoes; 3 tablespoons olive oil; 1 teaspoon chopped rosemary; ½ teaspoon fine salt; and black pepper. For the dip, mix 150g thick plain yogurt with 1 tablespoon lemon juice, ½ teaspoon zest and a small grated garlic clove. The dip contains milk.
Heat the oven to 220°C conventional/200°C fan. Scrub the potatoes, put in a saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 15–20 minutes until easily pierced. Drain and leave uncovered for 5 minutes so surface moisture can escape. Brush a large metal tray with 1 tablespoon of the oil.
Spread the potatoes on the tray and press each with the base of a sturdy mug until roughly 1.5cm thick. Drizzle with the remaining oil, add salt, rosemary and pepper and roast for 30–40 minutes until the edges are deeply golden. Turn carefully after 25 minutes if the underside needs more colour.
Serve with the chilled lemon yogurt on the side rather than spooned over every crisp edge. Allow about 70 minutes. Avoid crowded trays: use two if the potatoes touch. Cool leftovers promptly, refrigerate within 2 hours and use within 48 hours, reheating once until steaming hot. Add freshly made or correctly chilled dip after reheating.